The largest collection of swords, weapons and more from the Bronze Age to World War II
Battle Ready

Balaur Arms – Norwegian Viking Sword – Type E

SKU: KOA_BR106 Categories: , , Tag:
(4 customer reviews)

$249.95$289.95

The Type E Viking sword stands out among Viking swords for its particularly large and dominating hilt coupled with a broad blade. Most known examples date to the 9th and early 10th century in Norway, particularly near Trondheim. This reproduction by Balaur Arms has a blade of tempered high carbon steel with a wide and deep weight-reducing fuller running the center of the blade on both sides. The blade is tempered to a 56-58 HRc hardness.

The guard and pommel are cast from fine bronze; like traditionally-constructed examples this sword has a two-part pommel with a hollow upper pommel cap copper-riveted to the lower pommel and embellished with inlaid braided steel wire. The hardwood grip is tightly bound in leather and the sword blade is stoutly anchored into the hilt with a robust peen over the pommel.

The sword is paired with a wooden scabbard which is tightly wrapped in leather and capped with a chape of copper. A wooden suspension loop is tightly secured with a leather braided banding and allows for the sword to be slung from a shoulder baldric for wear.

Overall Length37 5/8''
Blade Length30 7/16''
Weight3 lbs 10.4 oz
EdgeUnsharpened
Width55.3 mm
Thickness3.6 mm - 2.9 mm
PommelPeened and Riveted
P.O.B.3 1/16''
Grip Length3 3/4''
Blade [1561 High Carbon Steel (ASTM)]
ClassBattle Ready
CultureViking
ManufacturerBalaur Arms
Country of OriginIndia

4 reviews for Balaur Arms – Norwegian Viking Sword – Type E

  1. Nathan K

    Bought this second hand. Very nice for the price. Feels good in the hand and very quick due to the heavy pommel. Finish is at the high end for Indian made swords. I would rate above Deepeeka and similar to Del Tin

  2. erich_ellis

    Full disclosure, I own a bunch of Balaur’s swords, both pre and post LK chen, and I love almost all of them. Please don’t take this as me saying not to enjoy the brand, as Balaur arms is one of my favorites. From a looks perspective, this is a cool sword. There are a number of originals in museums with hilts like this, with blades that were probably similarly profiled. But there is no way this weapon is anywhere near what an original would have felt like.

    The crossguard and pommel are especially thick and monstrously heavy, which brings your POB way back. This of course makes the weapon want to rotate through the wrist. When you do that, you realize how pointy, sharp and god awful painful the pommel can be. This was magnified when I first received the sword because from the factory, the pommel was rotated to about 1 o’clock. For a lefty, this would have helped make the sword more comfortable. For a right hander like myself though, I swear that I just about dislocated my wrist the first time I swung it. So I muscled it over to the 11 o’clock and that really helped, but it turns out that I did not bend the tang, just deformed the inside of the pommel so it started wobbling (rotating slightly) after some use. Honestly this was a miserable weapon to use and I don’t regret damaging it, because now after the modification it may still give me blood blisters but at least it doesn’t lever my wrist apart. I know it has been a long time since I ordered this but I would really like the money back.

    One star because the blade itself is well made.

  3. Quentin A. Tartock (verified owner)

    This is easily one of the most historically accurate reproductions of a sverth / Viking-age sword that you can get, especially for the price point. The grip is going to be very tight for anyone to gets one of these, and you’re not going to be able to wear very thick gloves. My hands are relatively small for a man (being medium or small size for a glove, depending on brand) and the grip is barely wide enough for me to fit my entire hand.
    Additionally, the pommel is *supposed* to be turned, as we’ve seen on hundreds of archeological finds, though it is true that Mr. Ellis’ was turned the wrong way and much too far. For a normal person the pommel should be at ~11:45 to 11:55 (if we’re looking at an analogue clock face to determine angle). Do NOT try to turn the tang by twisting the pommel of this sword. It’s made of brass, not of steel. You’re going to make the eye a perfect circle before turning the tang. You’ll have to deconstruct the hilt if you want to turn the tang at all.
    Now, Mr. Ellis above me is having problems because he’s trying to use the sword incorrectly. He’s trying to use it like an arming sword, when a sverth and an arming sword are used completely differently. You don’t turn your wrist, you lever the pommel into your palm if you’re going to make a cast blow, but the use of a “hammer” grip is more appropriate; and from my practice in fighting other people with similar a sverth and round-shield in attempt to figure out how the Norse fought, I’ve found that the hammer grip is much more effective with a shield. This is also informed by the fact that the Norse valued raw physical strength so highly that to be called strong was a component of one of the highest compliments one could get: to be called Drengr (which is to be honorable, strong, brave, and true). Now, I do believe that Roland Warzecha is correct that cast blows were also prevalent, and it would account for why the skaldic kenning for a sword was “battle snake,” but his ideas for shield fighting don’t seem to be practical in actual combat.
    He is correct that the top of the pommel that interfaces with your hand is quite sharp, but again it’s brass. It’s not exactly hard to wear down or sand.
    The blade is excellent and the sharpening service from Kult of Athena did a wonderful job. I’ve yet to have any problems despite using the sword for brush clearing. Easily better than any blade you’d have found *in* the Viking age or for long after.

  4. Quinn Waterfield (verified owner)

    Not too much to say for this one in terms of quality which is different.

    Overall this is very close to being near perfect in terms of historical accuracy for a mid range reproduction.

    The main issue is the fittings size and weight. The fittings are about %125-150 larger than the original typology and also lack the hollow pommel cap. This puts the balance 2” closer to the guard than typical of sword blades in this typology class (oakshotte type X, Geibig 1991 type 3)
    In addition there was confusion in the design as the pommel guard has two holes drilled and filled with imitation copper rivets. Where the original has no rivets and is just through peened on the tang.
    It’s hard to say without disassembly if the pommel assembly is two pieces like the originals or is one casting. If it is two parts the weight could be easily altered by a craftsman by removing material from the underside of the pommel cap.
    Front guard has characteristics of typologies that have wood spacers set into the mouth where the blade shoulders sit. Tang slot is slightly wider than the tang itself but can be easily shimmed if nessisary. Tang rides the length of the slot and is solidly butted to the blade shoulder.

    The blade is really good for the price, it’s been presumably surface ground and is strait in both axis. The flex is good aswell and surface finish is adequate for martial practice.

Add a review

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

0
    0
    Your Cart
    Your cart is emptyReturn to Shop