Home   »  Swords   »  European Swords   »  Medieval Swords   »  Knights Collection – 13th Century War Sword
$239.99
In stock
Shipping $8 - $45 in the lower 48 states, excluding PO/APO. Shipping calculated at checkout.
This 13th – 14th century War Sword has a sharp blade of 1060 high carbon steel which is mounted into a hilt with a stainless steel crossguard and pommel. The wooden grip is wrapped in cord and bound in black leather for a finish.
The sword comes with a wood-core scabbard which is overlaid in black leather and finished with three antiqued brass hanging buckles and a separate basic sword belt of leather with a matching brass buckle.
| Overall Length | 45 1/2'' |
| Blade Length | 35 13/16'' |
| Weight | 3 lbs 3.6 oz |
| Edge | Sharp |
| Width | 50.4 mm |
| Thickness | 5.7 mm - 5.3 mm |
| Pommel | Peened |
| P.O.B. | 7 1/2'' |
| Grip Length | 7 3/8'' |
| Blade | [1060 High Carbon Steel] |
| Type | longsword |
| Class | Battle Ready |
| Country of Origin | China |
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You will receive an email notification, including tracking information, when the order ships. If you ordered an in-stock item, please reach out to us only if you have NOT received a shipment notification after 7 business days.
We prioritize quality over speed.
Our shipment times include an amount of time for us to inspect and then appropriately package and protect your purchase before we ship. We are proud to be famous for our brown-paper protective wraps which help your purchase arrive in excellent condition.
Shipment times will vary due to the stock status of an item and whether you included other services, such as sharpening, in your order.
If an item is in-stock, we aim to ship within 7 business days of your order. If you have added sharpening, it may add up to an additional 7-10 business days.
Our items that are listed as Usually Ships in One to Two Weeks normally ship within 10-14 days.
Thank you for being a valued customer!
Kult of Athena Team
After you place your order, we’ll work on getting it ready as soon as we can. We know you’re excited to get your new items, but please make sure you wait to hear from us before you head over to our facility for pickup. We don’t want you to show up before your order is ready and have to wait.
You’ll receive a call or an email from us as soon as your order is ready for pickup.
See you soon!
Kult of Athena Team
We heard you! You’re missing the New in the Shop page. We didn’t remove it from the site… it went away because product timestamps all went back to 1 day on the day we launched and everything wanted to show up as new. This will correct in the next ~60 days as new items are added. Stay tuned and thanks for your patience!
Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.
Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.
This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.
Unsharpened edges will be thinner than a “blunt” edge, but will not offer any cutting ability. They will typically taper towards an edge, but then stop short.
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
A factory blemished model will have small cosmetic defects but no issues that will affect its function. Examples include, small surface scratches, scabbard dents or cracks, minor blade pitting, etc. Larger issues like blade chips, cracks, warps or anything else that will affect performance will not be included with these. Please note that we do not keep track of every specific minor blemish, so please do not contact us asking for details, we will not have them available. We are offering these items at a further discount for customers who are not overly concerned with cosmetics and intend to put them to some use.
A munitions grade item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
This “Munitions Grade” item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
“Country Of Origin” refers to the coutry where the product was manufactured. This is not to be confused with the “Culture” spec. For example, a culturally “Japanese” Sword could be made in India, a culturally “German” sword could be made in the US or a culturally “Indian” sword could be made in China. The historic “culture” associated with a particular sword and the country a reproduction is currently being made in, are two separate things and should not be confused.
As you would imagine, the “Manufacturer” spec refers to the brand or company the item is made by. Not all products will have a manufacturer listed. Some products do not fall under a specific brand.
The “Culture” spec will denote if the item is associated with a specific group of people, conflict or geographic area. For example, “Viking”, “Crusader”, “Pirate”, “Indian” “WWII”, and so on. Please note that many items will not fall into a specific culture like this and were used by many peoples or across many time periods.
The “Class” spec can have four possible values:
P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The Pommel entry refers to how the pommel, and usually by extension the whole sword, is held together. Possible values include “Peened” where the blade tang goes through the pommel and is hammered flat at the end, Threaded” where the end of the tang has threads and the pommel is screwed on, or “Nut” where the tang goes through the pommel and is secured by a separate threaded nut at the end.
“Thickness”, not to be confused with a blade’s “Width” is measured in millimeters on the blade where it first leaves the hilt and will refer to the thickest portion. For example the back edge on a katana or the mid section on a diamond shaped blade. Sometimes you will see two entries here, in that case it is usually because the blade is “distal tapered” meaning that it gets thinner towards the tip. The second measurement is taken approx. 1” from the tip.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
On blades, the “Width” is measured in millimeters and is taken where the blade leaves the hilt. A second measurement is provided when a blade widens further down, such as in a leaf shaped blade. The second measurement is taken at the blade’s widest point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” Â Â which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp , Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. Consider this as a general guideline only.
The “Weight” spec refers to the item itself and does not include any packaging or accessories. For example, it would be the weight of a sword not including a scabbard.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
As you’d imagine, “Overall Length” is the full length of the item in question. It is the length of the main item itself, not including any accessories. For example, this measurement for a sword would be for the sword itself, from the tip of the blade to the end of the pommel. This measurement will not include any scabbards, sheaths, boxes etc.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.
“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.
In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” (also known as “Stage Combat”) are specifically designed for combat reenactment, stage and film fights, and other activities where they will be hit edge to edge together.
Using a sword in this capacity is very different than how a sword would have been used historically, and as a result the sword must be made differently. Sport combat swords feature extra strong tangs and thick blades with thick edges. Sport combat swords will generally weigh more than a “Battle Ready” equivalent and are not made to be sharpened.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” will hold up to a fair amount of usage, but will wear out with time. No sword is indestructible, and “Sport Combat” swords are no exception.
On a sword, knife or dagger, The “Blade Length” spec is measured from the tip of the blade to where the blade enters the hilt, this will include a ricasso portion if present. For katanas, this measurement includes the habaki.
On a spear it is a measurement of the edged portion and does not include the socket. On an axe, it is a measurement of the axe edge itself, in a straight line from point to point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Ray B. –
13th century war sword I did a lot of looking at two handed medieval swords befor getting this one.I have 35 medeieval swords out of 175 which include Japanese,roman,greek ,sabers and Chinese swords all of which I have cut with.What I liked most about this war sword was the the whole package,with a pluss to the cross guard.My sword stats close to what is listed on this sight mine weighs only 3.1 pounds,handle is 7& 3/4,slong with promel 9& 3/8,s,length of cross guard is only 7& 3/4,s which I prefer a guard that is not to long. my blade length is 35&7/8,s,at guard the wdth is 2″.The edge of the blade is like the ronin katanas euro swords no secondary bevel mine cut paper right out of the box.I looked at the Ronin Crusader a lot but they ar 325.00 although they did have one on ther stratch and dent for 225.00 plus shipping,but last sword got fron their stratch and dent had a seath thay wac crap.So that made the war sword about 40.00$ cheaper.I did a little cutting dut to just got it at about 6.00 on Monday.Cut 16zo water bottle and 16.9oz coke bottle both cut very very clean leaving the uncut portion on the cutting stand.I have cut every a lot of different types of water bottles and the 16.9 oz coke bottles for example are harder than the 1 litter ones.I can say that when I cut these water bottles I used very little effort due a back injury getting over.That said some people may not like the stitching on the handle it is wto stitiching,s on both sides where the lether comes togather.Also after I cut I noticed a 1/32″ nick in the blade-hard to measure. Don’t know if it was there befor or not hard to see so small.The steel is 1060 so should be ok.Note I have bent and had small nicks on other swords of different steel types and different swords.I have never cut anything but watter bottles ,matsand bamboo when I can find it here in az.It been my experience that some watter bottles can damage a sword more than mats I have cut total of 15 beach mats with pool noole in side and never nicked a sword,now bamboo is a different story.To sum up if you want a beater get a ronin katana # 7 if you are on a budget and want something that can cut mats,most watter bottles and maybe small bamboo,and you really like the looks of this 13 century war sword I think this one is a good deal,with the whole package.Also the seath is like the ronin katans euperion swords but better feels more solid also I don’t mind that it doesent bother me that there isn’t any metal at top or bottom of the seath.
Nicholas –
The sword was nicely packed and delivered in a timely manner after ordering. The sword comes well-oiled and sheathed in its scabbard. The scabbard itself is good for the price, solid wood wrapped in leather.
The blade of the sword was perfectly sharp out of the box; however, the guard was slightly loose, which is unfortunately an all-too-common ailment of any fine cutlery that is otherwise mass-produced and is not in the upper range of pricing. The problem is easily remedied with the classic automobile fixer – that is the careful application of J-B welding. The more annoying, disappointing aspect of the sword is that the leather wrapping the hilt is not truly secured in any way, shape, or form, and as a result has a tendency to “slip” down the hilt with extensive use. It is simply loose, and I’m unsure of how it was intended to be secured in the first place, whether with the black bands beneath the leather, or by being tucked in-between the hilt itself and the guard to create a sort of pinch to hold it in-place. Either way, it’s slovenly. Additionally, the vertical stitch of the leather around the hilt is quite uncomfortable if not pressed into your palm instead of your fingers, and will certainly provide you with bloody blisters on your hands if you insist on using the thing without gloves – just make sure the gloves themselves are also of sturdy make, otherwise that stitching will eventually tear through those too.
About the sword’s more estimable qualities: it handles well enough in the hands. Whether you are a first-time buyer or have extensive experience handling the tools of old, this sword serves as well as any other. It’s light enough at its odd 3lbs that you can use it as a clumsy dueling sword with one hand, or pair it with a shield, or you can simply make full use of its long hilt with both hands. It is perfectly fine and fairly versatile. The worst of its effects are, as aforementioned, mitigated with a decent pair of gloves. The blade is also sturdy and will handle the usual modern adversaries, plastic, mats, organics, and the like with predictable effect – yourself too, if you aren’t careful.
It’s a 3/5 from me. Decent steel for the price you are paying and certainly a good introductory sword for the amateur, or another fun beat-stick sword the seasoned handler. Though it makes for a rather tasteless wall fixture.