The Cold Steel Persian Shamshir features a sharpened high carbon steel blade with brass guard and faux buffalo horn grip. Includes a black leather scabbard with brass throat and chape and dual suspension rings.
The Shamshir originated in Persia and spread throughout the former Ottoman Empire and beyond into India and even the Philippines. Its strongly curved blade was enduringly popular and absolutely ideal for delivering a devastating cutting stroke. And, contrary to popular belief, it was very effective at delivering rising, descending and hooking style thrusts! Typically, the curved Shamshir blade had a narrow cross section and a sharp point. It had a simple brass or steel crossbar hilt and an equally straight forward handle made from wood or animal horn that terminated in a distinctively bulbous pommel. This pommel was offset slightly to help the hand resist centrifugal force when making a hard cutting stroke. The Cold Steel Persian Shamshir features a sharpened high carbon steel blade with brass guard and faux buffalo horn grip. Includes a black leather scabbard with brass throat and chape and dual suspension rings.
Great Sword at a Good Value The shamshir is a sturdy, well built sword. The curve not only makes it an excellent cutting sword, but allows it to deliver unsuspected hook thrusts. It it light enough to handle well but heavy enough to cut through targets with ease. The sword only took three days to arrive.
William M. –
Quality well built Sword I spent some time looking at different shamshir blades and settled on this. While I’m not too fond of Cold Steel as a company. This sword is surprisingly well made. The fittings are all tight. The grip. While certainly small. Fits well in one hand. It’s a bit slippery due to the polish. I’m not sure what materiel the grip is made out of. But the handle is handle is riveted so it’s sturdy. The brass cross guard is beautiful, Not too fancy but retains the historical cross. The scabbard is also finely made. Quality thick leather is used. It grips the blade but not too much. The brass fittings keep the scabbard in tact. I would have preferred a wood core but for the price it’s nice it comes with one at all. The S curved blade is razor sharp. I did some cut tests and noticed the fuller runs nearly the entire length of the blade. Allowing for quick strikes. The blade has just enough weight to carry the swing for you. It’s rather light in general. The point of balance is 6 inches into the blade making it a bit blade heavy. But seeing as this was a common blade to use while mounted. The point heavy blade means heavier cuts. The best point of contact is 3 inches before the final S curve. At closer inspection. The 1055 blade is actually forged by Windlass. Companies will sometimes do this. They can get a better deal by purchasing blades from other companies and fitting it themselves. I have no complaints though. I actually think Windlass makes some very nice blades. Sharpened this thing is durable and flexible. It bends 60 degrees and bounces back with no effect. Blade geometry is as perfect as ever. My gripe is the handle. The sword will slip and slide around. Forcing you into a hammer grip which gets tiring quickly. The handle is so small that people with large hands will have trouble gripping it. The leather scabbard grips the blade a little to much. Making it awkward to pull out. Other than that it’s great!
Ian S. –
Decent Steel, Sub-par hilt materials TL;DR
Decent steel, cuts well. Faux handle broke during solo drills.
I bought this a few months ago and was enamored with it as it came out of the box. The bend tests results performed by cold steel were included and made me feel I had made a good purchase. I used it only for light cutting and solo drills on air. Never abused it. One day after not having touched it for a few weeks I took it out again to do solo drills and in the middle of a cut (on air) the handle broke at the second rivet. It was then I discovered that this sword has about a 2/3 tang construction, which is my suspicion as to why it broke. I had heard of the bulb on the wooden windlass versions breaking off due to natural grain in the wood, but I assumed this faux horn (some type of plastic) would have been sturdier.
I have no problem with the steel quality. In fact, I still consider this above par among my collection, at least as far as the steel is concerned. Considering I refurbish hilts and handles, this breaking gave me a fun project. I ended up adding a hand guard and almost turning it into a sabre.
In the end I hope i just got a lemon, but I would be cautious recommending this sword, even for the quality steel.
Der L. –
Solid Sword, Sub-Par Scabbard tl;dr – the steel, guard, and handle are all great during cutting and pell work. Brass throat of leather scabbard fell off. Was disappointed with scabbard. Overall, still a good weapon system.
I’ve had this sword for years now, and have preformed routine oiling of the blade, and waxing of the leather scabbard. It looks great, and the blade holds a good edge during cutting practice and can handle the shock of impacting a wooden pell.
It looks good, feels good, cuts good, and thank the gods for a well fitting scabbard. Definitely one of the better fitting Cold Steel Scabbards in terms of blade retention and ease of draw. It also cones sharp out of the box, which is a huge plus.
The only issue I’ve run into with the system as a whole is the top brass piece on the leather scabbard just decided to take a walk on me. Nothing some contact cement couldn’t fix, but annoying nonetheless.
Frank N Beans –
I purchased this from another site as it was sold out here but it is the current model, The detailing in the guard and pieces on the scabbard make it stand out, the sword itself is very light weight and easy to swing around like nothing. Mine came with a decent edge but I like mine a little sharper the edge is good for cutting but that all depends on how you yourself want the edge. the only thing I didn’t like was how smooth the handle was if knot for the knob it would fly out of the hand, I used grip tape for good grip on mine or you could use some gloves