We value your privacy
We use cookies to make your experience better. By staying here, you’re cool with that. Read our Cookie Policy.
We use third-party cookies that help us analyze how you use this website, store your preferences, and provide the content and advertisements that are relevant to you. However, you can opt out of these cookies by checking "Opt Out of Cookies" and clicking the "Save My Preferences" button. Once you opt out, you can opt in again at any time by unchecking "Opt Out of Cookies" and clicking the "Save My Preferences" button.
Home » Armor » Helmets » Medieval Helmets » Pot Helmet with Visor – 16 Gauge Steel
$141.25
Shipping $8 - $45 in the lower 48 states, excluding PO/APO. Shipping calculated at checkout.
This Pot Helmet is both aesthetically appealing and highly functional. Crafted in 16 gauge steel with its great cross overlaid in brass, the helm has a movable visor, excellent ventilation and full padding.
| Weight | 8 lb 6.5 oz |
| Gauge | [16 Gauge] |
| Type | Great Helm |
| Material | Mild Steel |
| Manufacturer | GDFB |
| Country of Origin | India |
Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.
Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.
This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” (also known as “Stage Combat”) are specifically designed for combat reenactment, stage and film fights, and other activities where they will be hit edge to edge together.
Using a sword in this capacity is very different than how a sword would have been used historically, and as a result the sword must be made differently. Sport combat swords feature extra strong tangs and thick blades with thick edges. Sport combat swords will generally weigh more than a “Battle Ready” equivalent and are not made to be sharpened.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” will hold up to a fair amount of usage, but will wear out with time. No sword is indestructible, and “Sport Combat” swords are no exception.
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
A factory blemished model will have small cosmetic defects but no issues that will affect its function. Examples include, small surface scratches, scabbard dents or cracks, minor blade pitting, etc. Larger issues like blade chips, cracks, warps or anything else that will affect performance will not be included with these. Please note that we do not keep track of every specific minor blemish, so please do not contact us asking for details, we will not have them available. We are offering these items at a further discount for customers who are not overly concerned with cosmetics and intend to put them to some use.
A munitions grade item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.
“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.
In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.
On blades, the “Width” is measured in millimeters and is taken where the blade leaves the hilt. A second measurement is provided when a blade widens further down, such as in a leaf shaped blade. The second measurement is taken at the blade’s widest point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Country Of Origin” refers to the coutry where the product was manufactured. This is not to be confused with the “Culture” spec. For example, a culturally “Japanese” Sword could be made in India, a culturally “German” sword could be made in the US or a culturally “Indian” sword could be made in China. The historic “culture” associated with a particular sword and the country a reproduction is currently being made in, are two separate things and should not be confused.
The Pommel entry refers to how the pommel, and usually by extension the whole sword, is held together. Possible values include “Peened” where the blade tang goes through the pommel and is hammered flat at the end, Threaded” where the end of the tang has threads and the pommel is screwed on, or “Nut” where the tang goes through the pommel and is secured by a separate threaded nut at the end.
On a sword, knife or dagger, The “Blade Length” spec is measured from the tip of the blade to where the blade enters the hilt, this will include a ricasso portion if present. For katanas, this measurement includes the habaki.
On a spear it is a measurement of the edged portion and does not include the socket. On an axe, it is a measurement of the axe edge itself, in a straight line from point to point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
As you’d imagine, “Overall Length” is the full length of the item in question. It is the length of the main item itself, not including any accessories. For example, this measurement for a sword would be for the sword itself, from the tip of the blade to the end of the pommel. This measurement will not include any scabbards, sheaths, boxes etc.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Thickness”, not to be confused with a blade’s “Width” is measured in millimeters on the blade where it first leaves the hilt and will refer to the thickest portion. For example the back edge on a katana or the mid section on a diamond shaped blade. Sometimes you will see two entries here, in that case it is usually because the blade is “distal tapered” meaning that it gets thinner towards the tip. The second measurement is taken approx. 1” from the tip.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Weight” spec refers to the item itself and does not include any packaging or accessories. For example, it would be the weight of a sword not including a scabbard.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp , Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. Consider this as a general guideline only.
The “Class” spec can have four possible values:
The “Culture” spec will denote if the item is associated with a specific group of people, conflict or geographic area. For example, “Viking”, “Crusader”, “Pirate”, “Indian” “WWII”, and so on. Please note that many items will not fall into a specific culture like this and were used by many peoples or across many time periods.
As you would imagine, the “Manufacturer” spec refers to the brand or company the item is made by. Not all products will have a manufacturer listed. Some products do not fall under a specific brand.
Unsharpened edges will be thinner than a “blunt” edge, but will not offer any cutting ability. They will typically taper towards an edge, but then stop short.
John –
Not SCA Legal Despite what the page says this helm is not SCA legal. I just took it to my local marshal who basically said the only thing legal is the thickness of the steel. The rivets are too far apart, the padding is not dense enough and the chinstrap is essentially useless for everything but keeping it from being pulled off straight up (mine was also riveted too far back meaning it was pushing into my throat. Could pass for LARP combat but do not order if you intend to use it for SCA fighting. Very misleading; 300 bucks that would have been better spent elsewhere for me.
Michael J. –
Great helm, no pun intended. This is an awesome helmet, as a former SCA fighter and marshal this helmet would easily pass inspection. It is well padded and the leather strap works well just needed an extra hole for my tiny head. The construction is solid and the visor is a nice feature. The only drawback is the latch is difficult to re-engage while wearing the helm, this might be solved by a little bending of the hook. Over all I am very pleased with this purchase and with all of my KOA dealings.
Rich –
A fine display piece. To make this clear I had originally I ordered a different Sugarloaf helm from this website, however I ended up with this one instead.
I did not intend to purchase anything functional, rather I was looking for something as a display piece and for that it’s just fine.
In a practical standpoint I’m somewhat confused by this Helm, it seem to be a strange combination between a Bascinet and a Sugarloaf that can’t do either very well. The inside of the helmet is lined with very heavy padding, this is probably what contributes to its weight, this can be an upside in one way so that you wouldn’t need to buy a arming cap or a Secret helm to put under it, but the lack of vervelles attached to it you’d still need a mail coif which also means you need an arming cap. The visor hook thing gets stuck often, and this makes it difficult to open and close without taking it off (especially to to shut it).
You should not buy this at the regular price unless you really like the way it looks. I almost wish I got a refund while I could.
Foster –
Strong helmet, not sure what other reviews are going on about. This is a very heavy helmet, but it provides very solid defence, and I have not had any issues with it for the 2 years I have been using it. This is a very hot helmet as well, but the liftable visor helps very much with breathing in between rounds. Iv never had any issues getting this helmet past inspection. It takes hits well and disperses the shock decently enough.
Ace –
It all depends As with this helmet being SCA legal all depends on the marshal inspecting the helmet. The padding is sufficient but I would recommend a under layer as the helmet is heavy and the padding on the top is not enough to keep it up on your head, unless you have a really big head, this helmet runs big. The chin strap is a choker, not a chin strap and MUST be reconfigured! You can NOT! use it the way it is or YOU WILL BE CHOCKED OUT. I placed a chin cup on mine. As with the rivets; this all depends on what marshal is inspecting you helmet and how strict they are at what ever kingdom your fighting in. SCA states the rivets must be no farther that 2 1/2 inches apart some on this piece are 3 inches. If your kingdom is very strict you can easily drill a hole and pop in another rivet even if it is just for show, this helmet is so sturdy it wont matter. So this can make or brake your day if you do not know how your marshals are!!!! What helps is the helmet is 14g steel and the SCA only requires 16g, so some marshals will pass is due to the thicker steel even though the rivets are too far apart. I hope this helps the arguments. This would have got 5 stars but the chin strap and the rivet placing knock it down.
Spencer B –
Happy with first buy from site. Got it for display mainly but after a friend broke a half inch diameter slightly rotted wooded shovel handle over my head I can safely say it can take a beating with only a small scratch and two ringing ears.
Allen –
Tank of a helmet I purchased a very similar helm to this, also GDFB from a different supplier, only there was no padding inside, instead they gave me an arming cap, the visor doesn’t raise very high or stay up, but aside from that its a well crafted piece.
Michael –
Good and functional, but with a few flaws. I recently received this helmet as a Christmas present and I was pleasantly surprised. The steel is very thick and sturdy, the padding is very heavy, and the eye slits align perfectly with my eyes (however that won’t apply to everyone). Sadly, I happened to have a few flaws with this helmet. One downside is how thick the padding is, when I put it on the padding squishes my face inwards. Another issue is that there are no vervelles to attach an aventail, however this can be remedied by getting a ‘bishops mantle’. An additional issue I had with my helmet was that the hook to fasten the visor down was not aligned with the hole, but it was a very simple fix in which should not take away from this beast of a helmet. Finally, the brass cross on the helmet was odd looking (the surface looks marbled in appearance). At first I did not like it, but it grew on me and I think the unusual texture looks cool.
Overall 4/5 stars.