This rapier can be stylistically paired with the Kingston Arms Main Gauche to create a matched sword and dagger set. Available separately (SKU SM36240)
This Kingston Arms Swept Hilt Rapier melds a streamlined elegant design with functionality and efficiency at the forefront. Kingston Arms has improved upon many reproduction rapier designs by reinforcing the guard at its connection the blade to ensure the hilt and blade is reinforced to absorb the impact from a decisive thrust. In addition to this, the blade, guard, pommel and hilt can all be easily disassembled and reassembled with a retaining nut on the pommel which allows for the sword to be disassembled for travel or storage.
The blade is forged from well tempered high carbon steel and the guard and pommel are of antiqued stainless steel. The grip is wood which is bound in leather cord and the grip and hilt are designed so as to ensure that there is room for a comfortable and secure handhold when wearing fencing gloves. To reduce the packaging size, the Kingston Arms Rapier comes unassembled and includes a metric wrench to tighten down the pommel and grip.
This rapier is heavily inspired by an original kept within the Royal Armouries. It has a blade of well-tempered high carbon steel. Christus Imperat (Christ Commands) is etched into the fuller on both sides. The complex and vibrantly spiralled guard of this rapier is made of metal with an antiqued steel finish.
The pommel is likewise crafted in metal with an antiqued finish and the grip is elaborately wrapped in steel wire and surmounted by turks heads knots of twisted steel braid. The scabbard is of black leather and its chape and throat fittings are of metal with an antiqued steel finish.
The rapier is commonly portrayed as a lightning fast sword and while it is certainly not a heavy or remotely cumbersome weapon, the notion that it is used in dizzyingly fast and deft flourishes is an exaggeration. Such techniques are directly inspired instead by the shorter smallsword and sport fencing. Due to its relatively similar form these properties have been assumed upon the rapier in many movies and video games.
Historically the rapier is used not as a wildly moving blade with elaborate flourishes and manic blade-to-blade clashing with the foe – it is instead a calculated thrusting weapon. Its long blade length keeps the foe at bay and when an opening through his defense appears a swordsman with a rapier can strike at a significant distance with his sword held outwards matched with a forward step. The thin blade easily pierces an unarmored opponent and a mere few inches of penetration to the torso are likely to cause a serious wound, or a great amount of internal bleeding at the least.
This swept hilt rapier handmade by Windlass Steelcrafts was quite popular in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. The blade is 1055 high carbon steel with a diamond cross section. The blade is  mounted into a swept hilt of steel – or the intertwining bars that protect the bearer’s hand, and completed with a grip of polished bone. The rapier is paired with a thick leather scabbard with steel fittings.
Bone is a natural product and may have slight variations from the photo
This was one of Windlass’s most popular rapiers for a number of years, later to be retired, but now back in production as a Windlass Classics.
Epic Armoury’s Rapier is a medium latex sword inspired by European medieval weapons. The sword is 85 cm long and has a 70 cm straight double-edged blade with a central ridge. The crossguard curves toward the blade to trap incoming strikes, protecting a 10 cm detailed handle with metal embellishments and real leather wrapped around the grip.
Whether you are a nobleman or a valiant musketeer, this Rapier is our highest quality gear due to its impressive durability and detail. The blade is made from closed cell foam around a fibreglass core and finished with a strong latex coating, while the handle is a polyurethane foam cast that allows for greater detail and no maintenance. This next generation model sword will make you confident in the safety and appeal of your weapon on the battlefield.
All latex-coated weapons need a certain degree of maintenance. For this we recommend using maintenance silicone which can be purchased separately. Epic Armoury Maintenance Silicone is an easy, spray-on application, 100% pure and acid-free making it safe to apply. We recommend using Maintenance Silicone on a regular basis. It maintains the latex-coats flexibility and prevents it from drying out, keeping the product wear and tear resistant.
Store your latex weapons flat or on its pommel–NEVER on its tip. Use a simple sheet or towel lining to prevent it from touching a plastic or rubber surface to prevent your weapon from adhering to other products. Keep your weapons in a cool, dry environment.
Please Note: Handpainted Item – Color of weapon, including blade may vary
This weapon is made from foam and is designed for safe sport and roleplay with discretion. It also is quite suitable as a prop for costume and cosplay.
This Flamberge Rapier has a unique, flame-like blade that is forged from high carbon steel. The hilt is crafted from steel and the wooden grip is bound in leather and overlaid in twisted copper wire. The wood-core companion scabbard is bound in black leather and finished with a protective steel chape and locket.
Cold Steels Cavalier Rapier has a sharpened blade of 1055 high carbon steel. The complex guard and pommel are crafted from antique-finished steel. The grip is tightly overlaid in twisted steel wire and capped on each end with elaborately knotted steel wire. The companion scabbard is crafted from black leather and antiqued steel fittings.
By the mid-17th century some rapiers were made with slightly shorter blades and intended to be lighter, faster and quicker than the larger, more typical rapiers. They were, in effect, an early forebear of the smallsword and were intended to gain an edge in agility for the duellist.
The Cold Steel Cavalier Rapier clearly straddles this transition as the sword has the stylings reminiscent of smallsword, yet it still retains a size in between that of a long rapier and a smallsword, coupled with a lighter blade.
This Crown Basket Hilt Rapier has a complex swept hilt design matched with a tempered blade of high carbon steel. The guard and pommel are fashioned from plated brass and the grip is crafted from wood and finished with twisted wire inlay. The sword comes with a scabbard made from durable, thick leather with a steel chape and locket.
These Red Dragon Rapier Gloves will protect the hands from the inevitable blisters, abrasions and scrapes that would otherwise develop whilst doing swordsmanship training and drill. Made from leatherand lined with fabric on the interior, they are also lightly padded and suitable for light sparring – they are not to be used for full contact sparring however. These gloves bring both control and comfort to your HEMA swordsmanship training.
For HEMA, this product has been classified as either appropriate for all skill levels or appropriate for those with Advanced Skills. Michael Turner, instructor at Tuathair Academy of Swordsmanship, assisted us in categorizing these items for the different skill levels of HEMA participants. These categorizations are meant as guidelines. Please refer to tournament rules for specific competition requirements. For this purpose, we do not include swords that may be used in cutting competitions in the HEMA category.
Overall length of these gloves measures the distance from the wrist to the tip of the middle finger
This classically-styled swept hilt rapier has a hilt of blued steel and a wooden grip which was tightly overlaid in blackened brass wire to match. The tempered steel blade is C60 high carbon steel; included with the rapier is a durable scabbard of thick black leather and a blued steel chape and locket.
Epic Armoury’s Rapier is a long latex-hybrid sword inspired by rapiers of the Renaissance. The sword is 100 cm long and has an 80 cm blade with a central ridge. The crossguard features a looped design to protect the forefinger while providing a precise grip. The grip itself is crafted to appear to be leather bound.
Whether you are a noble or a fortunate adventurer, this Rapier is one of our highest quality products due to its impressive durability and detail. The blade is made from closed cell foam around a fibreglass core and finished with a strong latex coating, while the handle is a polyurethane foam cast that allows for greater detail and no maintenance. This hybrid model sword will give you confidence in the safety and appeal of your weapon on the battlefield.
All latex-coated weapons need a certain degree of maintenance. For this we recommend using maintenance silicone which can be purchased separately. Epic Armoury Maintenance Silicone is an easy, spray-on application, 100% pure and acid-free making it safe to apply. We recommend using Maintenance Silicone on a regular basis. It maintains the latex-coats flexibility and prevents it from drying out, keeping the product wear and tear resistant.
Store your latex weapons flat or on its pommel–NEVER on its tip. Use a simple sheet or towel lining to prevent it from touching a plastic or rubber surface to prevent your weapon from adhering to other products. Keep your weapons in a cool, dry environment.
Please Note: Handpainted Item – Color of weapon, including blade may vary
This weapon is made from foam and is designed for safe sport and roleplay with discretion. It also is quite suitable as a prop for costume and cosplay.
This adjustable belt with rapier frog is crafted from thick, stitched leather. The buckles, rivets and fittings are of steel. The frog has a series of adjustable buckles and straps that can be fitted to a rapier scabbard; another buckle and strap on the frog can be used to control the angle the sword hangs at.
Please Note: Sword is not included and is shown for display purposes only.
Please Note: This belt now has brass fittings instead of nickel-plated steel. Photos will be updated when possible.
Circumference of adjustable scabbard holders: 3 1/2” – 5”
Order Status
You will receive an email notification, including tracking information, when the order ships. If you ordered an in-stock item, please reach out to us only if you have NOT received a shipment notification after 7 business days.
We prioritize quality over speed.
Our shipment times include an amount of time for us to inspect and then appropriately package and protect your purchase before we ship. We are proud to be famous for our brown-paper protective wraps which help your purchase arrive in excellent condition.
Shipment times will vary due to the stock status of an item and whether you included other services, such as sharpening, in your order.
If an item is in-stock, we aim to ship within 7 business days of your order. If you have added sharpening, it may add up to an additional 7-10 business days.
Our items that are listed as Usually Ships in One to Two Weeks normally ship within 10-14 days.
Thank you for being a valued customer!
Kult of Athena Team
Local Pickup
After you place your order, we’ll work on getting it ready as soon as we can. We know you’re excited to get your new items, but please make sure you wait to hear from us before you head over to our facility for pickup. We don’t want you to show up before your order is ready and have to wait.
You’ll receive a call or an email from us as soon as your order is ready for pickup.
See you soon!
Kult of Athena Team
Deposits
Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.
Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.
This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.
Unsharpened
Unsharpened edges will be thinner than a “blunt” edge, but will not offer any cutting ability. They will typically taper towards an edge, but then stop short.
Sharpening Service
Overview
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The Sharpening Process
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
What the Service is Not
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
Disclaimer
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
Grade
Blemished
A factory blemished model will have small cosmetic defects but no issues that will affect its function. Examples include, small surface scratches, scabbard dents or cracks, minor blade pitting, etc. Larger issues like blade chips, cracks, warps or anything else that will affect performance will not be included with these. Please note that we do not keep track of every specific minor blemish, so please do not contact us asking for details, we will not have them available. We are offering these items at a further discount for customers who are not overly concerned with cosmetics and intend to put them to some use.
Munitions Grade
A munitions grade item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
Munitions Grade
This “Munitions Grade” item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
Country of Origin
“Country Of Origin” refers to the coutry where the product was manufactured. This is not to be confused with the “Culture” spec. For example, a culturally “Japanese” Sword could be made in India, a culturally “German” sword could be made in the US or a culturally “Indian” sword could be made in China. The historic “culture” associated with a particular sword and the country a reproduction is currently being made in, are two separate things and should not be confused.
Manufacturer
As you would imagine, the “Manufacturer” spec refers to the brand or company the item is made by. Not all products will have a manufacturer listed. Some products do not fall under a specific brand.
Culture
The “Culture” spec will denote if the item is associated with a specific group of people, conflict or geographic area. For example, “Viking”, “Crusader”, “Pirate”, “Indian” “WWII”, and so on. Please note that many items will not fall into a specific culture like this and were used by many peoples or across many time periods.
Class
The “Class” spec can have four possible values:
Battle Ready – For functional weapons
Sport Combat – (also known as Stage Combat) For blunted fighting weapons
Decorative – For display only weapons
LARP – For Foam fighting weapons
P.O.B.
P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Pommel
The Pommel entry refers to how the pommel, and usually by extension the whole sword, is held together. Possible values include “Peened” where the blade tang goes through the pommel and is hammered flat at the end, Threaded” where the end of the tang has threads and the pommel is screwed on, or “Nut” where the tang goes through the pommel and is secured by a separate threaded nut at the end.
Thickness
“Thickness”, not to be confused with a blade’s “Width” is measured in millimeters on the blade where it first leaves the hilt and will refer to the thickest portion. For example the back edge on a katana or the mid section on a diamond shaped blade. Sometimes you will see two entries here, in that case it is usually because the blade is “distal tapered” meaning that it gets thinner towards the tip. The second measurement is taken approx. 1” from the tip.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Width
On blades, the “Width” is measured in millimeters and is taken where the blade leaves the hilt. A second measurement is provided when a blade widens further down, such as in a leaf shaped blade. The second measurement is taken at the blade’s widest point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Edge
The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” Â Â which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp , Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. Consider this as a general guideline only.
Weight
The “Weight” spec refers to the item itself and does not include any packaging or accessories. For example, it would be the weight of a sword not including a scabbard.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Overall Length
As you’d imagine, “Overall Length” is the full length of the item in question. It is the length of the main item itself, not including any accessories. For example, this measurement for a sword would be for the sword itself, from the tip of the blade to the end of the pommel. This measurement will not include any scabbards, sheaths, boxes etc.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
What is "Battle Ready?"
Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.
“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.
In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.
What is "Sport Combat?"
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” (also known as “Stage Combat”) are specifically designed for combat reenactment, stage and film fights, and other activities where they will be hit edge to edge together.
Using a sword in this capacity is very different than how a sword would have been used historically, and as a result the sword must be made differently. Sport combat swords feature extra strong tangs and thick blades with thick edges. Sport combat swords will generally weigh more than a “Battle Ready” equivalent and are not made to be sharpened.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” will hold up to a fair amount of usage, but will wear out with time. No sword is indestructible, and “Sport Combat” swords are no exception.
Blade Length
On a sword, knife or dagger, The “Blade Length” spec is measured from the tip of the blade to where the blade enters the hilt, this will include a ricasso portion if present. For katanas, this measurement includes the habaki.
On a spear it is a measurement of the edged portion and does not include the socket. On an axe, it is a measurement of the axe edge itself, in a straight line from point to point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
